A Cairngorm cycle loop
By Alan Kimber on 25/10/2020
Cycling, mostly off-road around the Cairngorm mountain group. A decent autumn weather forecast, supported the four-day journey. A hard-tail mountain bike, Surly Karate Monkey carried me and camping kit on this challenging and beautiful autumn ride.
Starting from Feshiebridge. Good tracks and byways, plus a short, easy portage at Loch an Duin on single-track, through Glen Tromie to Blair Atholl. Gently up Glen Tilt to The Falls of Tarf and on to Braemar on a mixed quality of trails. Steep gradients, up and over to Tomintoul from Braemar/Invercauld. Finally, turning back west to Ryvoan and the perfectly manicured trails in Glenmore Forest Park and Rothiemurchus. Additional information on these routes and many others, is available here
Search deeper into the history of this land and find evidence of cattle thieves, Illegal whisky stills, access battles, positive re-wilding, avalanches and private armies, amongst others! It’s Scotland’s second national park.
Day 1
Feshiebridge to Blair Atholl via Domingo’s Road. Dictated by a northerly wind and showers on day one, I headed south to Blair Atholl, via Inshriach Forest, Drumguish, Glen Tromie and Gaick Lodge, where in 1800 a shooting party, perished in an avalanche, that destroyed their bothy. The trails were good for cycling, with a short section of single track at the high point (500m), passing Loch an Duin. As the sun set, the descent towards the A9 and NCR 7 was a delight on good estate tracks and roads with light or non-existent traffic. Evidence of a positive re-wilding programme is clear around Glen Tromie and Glen Feshie and the keepers I met were happy to share their knowledge of the work they are progressing. Famished at the House of Bruar, the open ‘Chippy’ gave a much needed meal, before finding a camping spot.
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Alongside the River Feshie -
Inshriach Forest -
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Woods of Glen Tromie -
Fly Agaric -
Locally grown Birch seedlings -
Planting Birch seedlings -
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River Tromie -
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Loch an t-Seilich -
View to Gaick Lodge -
Gaick Lodge -
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Loch an Duin -
Bare hills and rainbows -
Close to the A9 -
Careful crossing the A9 -
Good news -
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A perfect place to finish
Day 2
The behaviour of the Duke of Athole in denying public access led Hugh Miller to write in 1847: “There is scarce in the Kingdom a better-known piece of roadway than that which runs through the glen” and that “if the Scottish people yield up to his Grace their right of way through Glen Tilt, they will richly deserve to be shut out of their country altogether”.
Blair Atholl to Braemar Starting up the gentle gradient alongside the River Tilt, where fishermen, hillwalkers, cyclists and sometimes paddlers can enjoy this beautiful glen. Historically access had been an issue and the Battle of Glen Tilt even entered the rarified chambers of the House of Lords! As far as the Falls of Tarf, the cycling is manageable on a good estate track. It then becomes difficult single track above a steep bank. This leads to open moorland and a rough descending track, where, after two miles of portage I was able to saddle up again. The run down to the Lin of Dee is on a gradually improving track. Hardly ever as good as that in Glen Tilt. Be careful in heavy rain as there are a number of wide, braided rivers, which could prove troublesome to cross. From the Linn of Dee, take the minor road on the south side of the river, with only one sustained uphill section. Braemar has a wide selection of accommodation and another ‘Chippy’.
Day 3
Braemar to Tomintoul The steepest and highest day. A short blast on the A93 to Invercauld and the altitude gain starts, after a pretty avenue of mature Beech trees. An old drove road begins and is signed north, up the hill, passing through mature forest. Peddle your loaded mountain bike if you can, or if like me, your preference is to push slowly upwards, enjoy the forest scenery. The track emerges onto bald heather hills, some up to 900m and continues upwards to 730m before relenting. Some peddling is possible! Hard work is immediately rewarded with a significant descent towards a short section of single-track, on the east bank of Loch Builg, followed by a good track to Tomitoul. At the high point check out some climate change research. The descending estate track follows the River Avon, whose source lies at 1160m on the Cairngorm plateau. Tomintoul is known as the highest village in the Scottish Highlands, but not the whole of Scotland. Historically famous for cattle theft and illegal distilling of spirits. Whisky is still important, along with tourism and nearby skiing at the Lecht. ‘Rustling’ was not evident on my visit! The main road (A939) can be closed by snow, in winter.
Day 4
Tomintoul to Feshiebridge The final day was a mixture of varying terrain, including some short sections of single-track. Two miles N.W. of Tomintoul on the A939 and just after the Bridge of Avon, head S.W. towards Glen Brown. Fallen trees and flooded single-track, following the Burn of Brown, lead to open hillside and good tracks. Pass Dorback Lodge, before turning south, then west into Abernethy Forest, National Nature Reserve. Short sections of single-track continue on to good tracks and trails, plus some river crossings, over to Ryvoan Bothy and Glenmore Forest Park. From Ryvoan, the final part of the day is generally on well-manicured tracks and trails, amongst mature mixed woodland. A coffee and cake stop at Glenmore or Loch Morlich is essential. For me, Loch an Eilein and the NCR 7 led back to my start point, after four days of superb off-road (mostly) cycle touring.
2 comments on “A Cairngorm cycle loop”
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Great to read about different routes. Thanks katie
Looks great Alan! Must do it!